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Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro: one-minute review
The Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro is a manual espresso machine that allows you to channel your inner barista. Naturally won’t get automatic bean grinding or one-touch drinks brewing; this is a machine designed for those who like to get hands-on when crafting their coffee.
As espresso machines go, the E24 Evo Pro is a bit of a beast. This isn’t going to slip discreetly among your kitchen appliances; it’ll dominate your worktop and, honestly, I’m not the biggest fan of its boxy, industrial design. On the flipside though, this bulky frame makes room for one of most capacious water tanks we’ve ever tested, at a whopping 2.2qt / 2.1 litres.
One element of its design I’m less forgiving of though is Gaggia’s stinginess when it comes to providing accessories. Packaged with the E24 Evo Pro you’ll get three filter baskets – a single-shot filter, a double shot filter, and a dual-walled filter – a steam wand with no elbow joint, and a pretty flimsy plastic tamp. That’s it: there’s no milk jug, no cleaning kit – none of the extras you might expect from an espresso machine that costs this much.
Given these design gripes, why have I rated the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro so highly? Because it makes it possible to consistently pour quality shots of coffee like many of the best espresso machines without needing to fuss too much over the details. Once I’d finely ground some beans and tamped the puck with medium pressure, the Gaggia expressed a beautiful double espresso for me without having to endlessly tweak the variables to achieve the right pressure. And it wasn’t just beginner’s luck: lightning struck twice with my second shot, which was just as rich and smooth as the first.
I also found the steam wand easy enough to use, although it perhaps isn’t quite as forgiving as the rest of the machine. Finding the right angle was harder than it tends to be with an elbow joint, but once I’d got the optimum orientation and depth, I was able to foam up a beautiful dairy cloud to add to my coffee. Watch your fingers though: the steam wand doesn’t have a cold-touch design, so it gets seriously hot during operation.
While the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro isn’t exactly a budget banger – its list price of $549 / £549 / AU$999 puts it firmly in the mid-market category – its performance definitely makes it good value for money. Even without professional barista skills, I was able to pull shot after shot of consistently great coffee, and didn’t need to endlessly tweak variables to get the perfect espresso. Yes, I feel that at this price, Gaggia could afford to be less stingy with its accessories but, all in all you’ll get a very reliable coffee companion with the E24 Evo Pro.
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro review: price and availability
- List price: $549 / £549 / AU$999
The Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro is available now and it has a list price of $549 / £549 / AU$999. For your spend, you get a wide variety of choice: the E24 Evo Pro comes in a wide range of colorways, whether it’s Polar White, Cherry Red or Sunshine Yellow. Unfortunately, what you don’t get is a lot of accessories: it’s missing a milk jug, backflush disc or any kind of cleaning kit, which all feels a bit stingy.
Still though, when it comes to value, the above pricing puts the Gaggia somewhere in the middle of the pack. It’s neither a budget brewer like the surprisingly capable De’Longhi Dedica Duo nor is it as ludicrously luxe as something like the Smeg Mini Pro Espresso Coffee Machine. But for what you’re paying, it’s a pretty sound investment, despite the dearth of accessories – I found it easy to create consistently delectable coffee in a way even many of its mid-market rivals struggle to manage.
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro review: specs
|
Name |
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro |
|
Type |
Manual espresso machine |
|
Dimensions (H x W x D) |
9 x 15 x 9.4 inches / 230 x 380 x 240mm |
|
Weight |
17.6lbs / 8kg |
|
Water tank capacity |
2.2qt / 2.1 liters |
|
Steam wand |
Yes, manual |
|
Max pressure |
15 bar |
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro review: design
- Large-capacity water tank
- Froths milk effectively
- Missing some key accessories
The design of the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro is a little brutalist for my taste. At 9 x 15 x 9.4 inches (230 x 380 x 240mm) it’s not the smallest machine, and I’d say I prefer the sleeker shape of Breville or De’Longhi machines personally. But I appreciate that for some people the solidity and presence of the Gaggia will be part of its charm, and at least it comes in a wide variety of colorways, from Lobster Red to Jungle Green.
At 2.2qt / 2.1 litres, the Gaggia’s water tank is substantial, offering a capacity that even outstrips many of the candidates on our list of the best espresso machines. Its drip tray is also pretty capacious, allowing it to catch quite a lot of spilled coffee, but its depth does cause some issues. It’s tall enough that it was genuinely difficult for me to squeeze even relatively squat mugs under the portafilter, and there’s no way to adjust its height, meaning a lot of the time you’re going to want to extract straight into espresso cups.
The range of accessories supplied with Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro is pretty weak, with a few items conspicuous by their absence. Three filter baskets cater to most eventualities, with single-shot and double shot filters, while the ‘perfect crema’ filter makes it easy to pull easy shots even with coffee pods or coarser grinds. There’s also a tamper included, but no milk jug, so this is something to factor into your budget.
Frankly, the tamper that comes with the Gaggia is pretty flimsy and plasticky. Personally, I want a tamper with some substance and heft behind it to make it easier to get an even tamp on your grounds. While it’s possible to get the job done with the tamper that comes in the box, I think you’ll likely want to upgrade to a better-quality option pretty soon after purchase.
The steam wand is a little better built, and its dual-steam-outlet design frothed the milk pretty effectively. It did take me a little while to find the right angle, as the arm merely swivels rather than using a ball-joint system, but once I did I was able to whip up a frothy cloud of foam fairly easily. One thing to watch out for though is that there’s no cool-touch design here. If you’re careless – which I am – it’s easy to catch your bare skin on the hot wand, which I did.
As an espresso machine, the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro naturally doesn’t come with quite as many features as some of its bean-to-cup rivals. It’s focused on pulling spot-on shots and foaming consistently frothy milk, not automated drinks dispensing and custom profiles, so you won’t be getting those kinds of innovative capabilities here. Aimed squarely at caffeine addicts who like to tinker with their grind and tamping to achieve the perfect extraction, it also doesn’t offer an integrated grinder, so be prepared to pick one up if you don’t already have one to hand.
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro review: performance
- Easy to pour really consistent coffee
- Pretty quiet running
- Drips a little after pump switches off
I’d been forewarned about the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro’s leisurely warm up cycle, which is almost zen-like in its unhurriedness. But it’s not quite as long as some people make out. It took around 60 seconds to hit its target temperature when I first started using it – admittedly that’s slower than many machines, including my home machine, the Breville Bambino Plus, but not quite as bad as the five or 10 minutes I’d heard bandied around. And it takes less than 10 seconds on subsequent shots, which really isn’t that bad.
Once the Gaggia was up to temperature, I blitzed some beans to a fine espresso ground, tamped it with a medium firmness and stuck the filled portafilter in the machine. I honestly wondered if there might be some trial and error required to get used to the machine’s pressure and temperature. But right out the gate it expressed pretty evenly, with the espresso neither rushing out incontinently nor dribbling out in fits and starts.
I also tested how load its pump was using a sound level meter, clocking it at 66dB, which is seriously quiet. By way of context, the Smeg BCC13 is Quiet Mark certified and tops out at 67dB max. Admittedly our testing environment might not be quite as rigorous Smeg’s, but still the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro is quieter when running than many competing espresso machines.
The espresso itself was spot-on. It came out with a sturdy, persistent crema that was the perfect buff tone with the odd hint of caramel running through it. And the taste was genuinely pretty impressive: even on that first pull, I was able to produce something rich and refined, with just the right balance of bitterness and acidity, while there was none of the astringency you’d get from an over-expressed shot.
Wanting to be sure that I hadn’t just lucked out on my first cup, I ran it again, using the same fineness of grind and trying to tamp and run the machine at the same temperature as I had the first time. The second espresso was identical to the first, meaning you should be able to achieve fairly consistent results with this machine.
This time I did notice there was a little dribbling from the machine after the pump clicked off. It wasn’t immediately clear if it was just dripping from a slightly overtamped, waterlogged puck, so I ran the Gaggia again without the portafilter in place and it still seemed to drool when switched off. This only lasted for a few seconds, so it isn’t a huge issue, but it does imply the Gaggia doesn’t have perfect control over its pump.
Scrubbing down the machine after use was more straightforward than I was expecting. Cleaning the steam wand requires you to give it a firm wipe down with a cloth and unscrew the tip before washing it under running water. Meanwhile, to clean the mesh screen, all I had to do was run the machine without a portafilter then wipe it down. Once you’ve switched off the machine, you can then wash out the water tank and wipe down the rest of the machine. All in all, while it sounds like a lot of steps, getting the machine spotless doesn’t take much of an investment.
- Performance score: 4.5 / 5
Should I buy the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro?
|
Attribute |
Notes |
Score |
|---|---|---|
|
Value |
While it’s not exactly budget priced, having tasted the coffee it produces I’m surprised it doesn’t cost a fair bit more. |
4/5 |
|
Design |
It has a slightly utilitarian design and few automated features, but its steam wand works reasonably well and it has some useful accessories, although also it’s missing a few. |
3.5/5 |
|
Performance |
Takes a while to warm up but once it does, you can pull consistently excellent shots without much tinkering required. |
4.5/5 |
Buy it if…
Don’t buy it if..
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro review: also consider
| Header Cell – Column 0 |
Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro |
Breville Bambino Plus |
Smeg BCC13 |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Type |
Manual espresso machine |
Manual espresso machine |
Automatic espresso machine |
|
Dimensions (H x W x D) |
9 x 15 x 9.4 inches / 230 x 380 x 240mm |
7.6 x 14.3 x 12 inches / 194 x 362 x 304mm |
336 x 180 x 433mm |
|
Weight |
17.6lbs / 8kg |
10.8lbs / 4.9kg |
19.8lbs / 9kg |
|
Water tank capacity |
2.2qt / 2.1 liters |
2qt / 1.9 liters |
1.5qt / 1.4 liters |
|
Steam wand |
Yes, manual |
Yes, hands free |
No, automatic |
|
Max pressure |
15 bar |
15 bar |
19 bar |
How I tested the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro
- I spent several days testing it
- I poured multiple coffees in a row to see how consistent it was
- I used the steam wand to foam multiple batches of milk
I used the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro regularly over a period of several days. To test the quality and consistency of its coffee, I poured multiple double espressos in succession, so I could assess how well the machine maintained its quality from drink to drink. I also used the steam wand to foam milk on several occasions, to test how well the boiler maintained its heat and how effectively the steam wand worked.
I also made sure I timed how long it took the Gaggia’s boiler to heat up initially and on subsequent runs, as well as using a sound-level meter to check how much noise it generated. Once I was done with testing, I also ran through the Gaggia Classic E24 Evo Pro’s daily and long-term cleaning routines, to see how easy it was to clean and maintain.
When it comes to my own personal experience, not only have I spent years testing and writing about gadgets, I’ve been making and drinking coffee from espresso machines daily for more than two decades. I’m really only a fan of drinking coffee made of freshly ground beans – I’m not a pod person.
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josh.russell@futurenet.com (Josh Russell)
